To Rapallo we ride – By Andy

Day four, our first moving day. With 35 accommodations lined up over 116 days, we’re about to become experts in packing, unpacking and remembering who should take what.

That said, the day starts with a fair amount of swearing at the bags. They’ve shrunk, we swear! We briefly debate leaving behind our travel companion, Little Boof, much to his disgust. 

Somehow, we find a home for all our worldly belongings and with a farewell to our quirky little accommodation we set off in search of a tram.

It’s not exactly ‘rush hour’—more like a rolling three-hour rush, with people on their own schedules—but it’s busy. Zoe doesn’t believe we’re getting on the busy tram with backpacks, fortunately, just enough people get off for me to bowl on. 

We are, and always will be, mostly courteous and respectful travellers, but sometimes you have to just accept you are that annoying person bumping into others with your life on your back. 

Commuter tram navigated, we arrive with enough time for coffee and a pastry. We plan not to be stressed on travel days, not because of us anyway, when taking public transport you’re always in the hands of the transport gods.

The plains of Piedmonte soon transform into some prettier countryside as we move into Liguria and edge closer to the coast. 

Zoe shouts “there’s the sea!” just as we pass into a tunnel and I miss it, head buried in my laptop writing our first blog post. But soon I realise the laptop needs to be shut to take in the changing scenery and what a treat we’re going to be in for over the next few days in Rapallo, our gateway to Genoa, Portofino, Cinque Terre and more.

“What day is it tomorrow?” I utter, much to Zoe’s amusement. Since leaving the working life behind in mid-January I’ve managed, until now, to keep track of the days quite well, but traveling for a while will always test that. I just wasn’t expecting it this early in the trip.

We arrive in Rapallo to rain! This was not requested nor wanted. However, the perfect opportunity to test our bags’ built-in rain covers for the short 5 minute walk to our hotel.

Bag jostling complete, we put our heads down against the rain, marching straight past the hotel’s understated entrance, only realising once we’ve gone too far.

Fortunately, the rain is short-lived, and after a quick unpacking and change of clothes we’re ready to explore what Rapallo has to offer. 

First stop, food. We’re starving, having only had a sandwich to share on the train. We find that not a lot is open and opt for yet more bread with slices of focaccia, one with pesto, the other with onions. Simple, honest and tasty.  

As we wander the promenade of Rapallo, the grey skies now turned to blue, the reality of travelling out of season is very evident.

Rapallo’s seafront castle, rising out of the sea and connected to the mainland by a pier – an unmistakable shape as one of the symbols of the city of Rapallo, reproduced in so many engravings, postcards, stamps and souvenirs – is shrouded in scaffolding. Endearingly, in the national colours, something that was to become a theme.

The roads nearby are also undergoing major replanning and works to make them attractive for the start of the season.

A bar, on our list to visit with a view of this wonderfully shrouded castle is shut, despite Google Maps swearing it’s open. The unreliability of Google Maps is not something new to us, but always a little disappointing.

Fortunately there’s always somewhere to rest your weary feet, take in a glass of frizzante rosé or pink gin cocktail (what on earth did I order?!). We discuss the merits and drawbacks of travelling out of season, whilst taking part in one of everybody’s favourite pastimes, people watching. 

Sitting near the promenade during passeggiata time is perfect. The “passeggiata” is the practice of leisurely strolling along the streets of a town in the company of family or friends. It’s a ritual that involves walking with no particular purpose (something a little alien to us Brits, we walk with purpose, with a destination in mind) other than socialising, a see-and-be-seen occasion, particularly in small towns and villages. 

People are dressed impeccably, Italians always living to “fare bella figura” a term that loosely means to make a good impression! Its actual meaning runs much deeper and is more a rule to live life by: to do well and behave in a good way, and in so doing reflect well on yourself, your circle of people and your family. 

We see friends and family greet each other as they pass each other by, stopping to engage in one of Italy’s favourite pastimes, conversation. It provides a hum, a buzz, real atmosphere – it’s completely engrossing. 

Mark Twain apparently once wisely remarked, “the true charm of pedestrianism does not lie in the walking, or in the scenery, but in the talking,” I think maybe we have something to learn (or rediscover) from Italy’s cherished tradition of the passeggiata.

With our appetites only temporarily sated, we go in search of an early opening restaurant, settling on one which is proud to serve local cuisine. Arriving bang on opening time, we’re turned away and asked to come back in 10 minutes (so charmingly Italian!). 

We find ourselves a rock bar, Rock Cafe Rapallo, down the road to have a piccolo (small) beer. The bar is a proper craft beer outfit, Zoe tries a smoked beer (no surprise there, she loves anything smoked) and I try a Ginger Beer, not a Ginger Beer, a beer flavoured with ginger. Both are very good, and the bar manager is very knowledgeable and friendly.

And, out of nowhere, we’re presented with a platter of tasty morsels to try… aperitivo time! Trying not to overdo it before dinner, we feel it’s impolite to leave it, oh the conundrum!

Fuller than we planned to be, we head to our dinner destination, Trattoria Ö Bansin. We choose light, mussels, a small cuttlefish stew and cima (a veal pocket stuffed with udders, sweetbreads, egg, pine nuts and veg) – I like to try these things. Whilst not remarkable, I find the cima very tasty, if you’re not put off by the list of ingredients, you have to give it a go.

Travelling out of season means fewer open bars, fewer restaurants and plenty of scaffolding… but it also means having moments like those today—just us, a little peace, and the soft hum of Italy’s evening rituals.

Tomorrow, we set out to explore more of Liguria, Portofino awaits. 

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