Sailing into Salerno: A Grand Entrance (Almost) – By Zoe

Three weeks into the trip, and we were finally swapping wheels for waves, boarding our first boat along the coast from Amalfi to Salerno. A sign of two very good things: one, that spring was (hopefully) on its way, and two, that we’d successfully dodged yet another round with the dreaded SITA bus. No last-minute luggage squabbles, no cryptic ticket hunts—just sea breeze and smug satisfaction.

There’s something undeniably glamorous about arriving by boat, especially along a coastline this stunning. Sunlight danced on the Tyrrhenian, the cliffs of Amalfi faded into soft focus, and for a brief moment, we felt like characters in a stylish travel ad.

That is, until I enthusiastically disembarked, caught my foot on a rope, and came perilously close to turning our chic arrival into a slapstick splashdown in the sea (see video here). Graceful it was not. But memorable? Absolutely.

We had high hopes for Salerno. After the glitz and glamour of Amalfi and Positano, we were ready for a more local vibe, with better food, reasonable prices, still with the coastal atmosphere, yet more relaxed and authentic. And almost as soon as we arrived, we could tell it was going to live up to them.

As the boat pulled away and we rolled our bags along the palm-lined promenade, we began to get our first real taste of what Salerno had to offer.

Salerno: Underrated, Unbothered, and Utterly Charming

Tucked just beneath the dramatic rise of the Sorrentine Peninsula, Salerno feels like Campania’s best-kept secret. It’s got all the perks of a proper city; shopping, convenience, and decent transport links, but somehow still hums along with small-town charm. And the best part? The tour groups haven’t quite clocked it yet. Long may that last. 

Small City, Big Views—and Not a Tour Bus in Sight

Geographically speaking, Salerno is in a bit of a sweet spot. Perched on Italy’s southwestern coast, it sits about 50 kilometres south of Naples and a good 270 kilometres from Rome, with the glittering Tyrrhenian Sea at its feet and the Apennine mountains rising behind. Tucked between the Sorrentine Peninsula and the southern gateway to the Amalfi Coast, it’s ideally placed for exploring some of Italy’s biggest hitters—Pompeii, Herculaneum, Paestum, even Mount Vesuvius.

But unlike its flashier neighbours, Salerno still feels refreshingly real.

Beneath the relaxed surface

Despite its chilled-out vibe, Salerno has some serious historical credentials. Founded by the Romans in the 2nd century BC, it later became the proud home of the Scuola Medica Salernitana, Europe’s very first medical school. If you’ve ever wondered where medieval scholars learned to wield leeches and herbal remedies with academic flair, this was the place.

Salerno’s strategic coastal position brought it into contact with cultures far beyond Campania; Byzantine, Arab, and Norman. You can see the legacy of that blend everywhere: in the architecture, the dialect, the food, and most strikingly, in its buildings. The Cathedral of San Matteo mixes Romanesque grandeur with Moorish arches and Baroque flourishes, while the imposing Arechi Castle looms from its hilltop perch, offering sweeping views from the mountains to the sea.

This wasn’t just a crossroads of trade routes, it was a crossroads of ideas. The medical school itself was born of that convergence, founded by a mix of Christian, Jewish, and Muslim scholars, united by curiosity and collaboration. That spirit still lingers in the air here—and possibly in the pasta.

First Impressions: Naples’ Calm Cousin

If Naples is a whirlwind—grand, gritty and gloriously chaotic—then Salerno is its calmer, cleaner, better-dressed cousin who somehow still knows how to throw a great dinner party.

All the good stuff is here: the history, the food, the warm Campanian hospitality. But it’s wrapped in a neater package. Less traffic, fewer honking horns, and a general sense that the city actually tidies up after itself.

Most people arrive by train and are immediately greeted by a burst of greenery—an elegant square that spills towards the sea just two blocks away. The architecture in the centre leans into classic liberty style, but painted in those signature Amalfi hues of lemon yellow, apricot, coral pink and cloud white. The effect? Retro chic with a southern soul. On our last morning, we sat at a cafe, happily very early for our train, so we could sit and soak up the atmosphere.

Though it’s only a short ride from Naples, the contrast is striking. Salerno moves at a much gentler pace, locals were quick to smile and chat, and we felt welcome from the moment we arrived. What made Salerno even more memorable was the time of year we visited.

We arrived in March, which is technically still winter here—even if the lemon trees and café tables suggest otherwise. Out of season, Salerno slips into a quieter rhythm. The crowds are gone, hotel prices are kind, and restaurant owners have time to chat rather than juggle menus and ten languages. It’s the perfect time to visit if you want to see the city through local eyes—it may not be warm enough to swim, but the city has plenty more to offer.

Despite having a population of around 100,000, Salerno is wonderfully compact. There’s no need to worry about where to stay, just head for the historic centre, where everything unfolds within a walkable radius. Sea views, ancient ruins, colourful facades, lively markets, it’s all right there. And with the lack of tourist hustle, it’s a city that invites you to slow down, linger over a coffee, and take in the southern sun without a rush. And that’s exactly what we did.

A Cathedral with Stories in Its Stones

If there’s one building that sums up Salerno’s rich, layered history, it’s the Cathedral of San Matteo. Nearly 1,000 years old and full of character, this striking structure blends Byzantine, Romanesque, and Norman influences in a way that feels both grand and grounded. It’s not just a place of worship, it’s a timeline in stone.

Step through the bronze doors (cast in Constantinople, no less), and you’ll enter a space that hums with history. The real treasure, though, lies beneath: the crypt. Lavishly decorated with intricate mosaics, frescoes, and twisting columns, it’s said to house the remains of Saint Matthew himself. Whether or not you’re religious, it’s hard not to be awed by the detail, drama, and sheer atmosphere of it all.

Wandering the Woven Streets

Just outside the cathedral, the historic centre of Salerno unfolds like a well-worn map, full of narrow lanes, crumbling archways, and sun-bleached shutters that seem to whisper stories of the past. It’s one of those places where getting lost is not only inevitable, it’s encouraged.

The streets here are a patchwork of eras. Roman stones underfoot, medieval arches overhead, and the occasional splash of street art bringing it all into the present. Locals drift in and out of tiny bakeries and corner cafés, greeting each other with the kind of familiarity that only comes from generations of shared space. There’s no grand plan or tourist trail, just turn a corner and see what you find. A tucked-away church. A washing line strung between balconies. A cat that looks like it’s been roaming the streets since the 14th century.

It’s quiet, yes, but not dull. Salerno’s old town hums gently with life, and walking through it feels less like sightseeing and more like slipping into someone else’s rhythm for a while.

Sea Breezes and Open Spaces

After the winding lanes of the old town, stepping out onto Salerno’s lungomare feels like a breath of fresh, salty air, quite literally. This wide, palm-lined promenade stretches along the coast for nearly two kilometres and offers the kind of gentle, scenic stroll that makes you forget about time altogether.

On one side, the Tyrrhenian sparkles in shifting shades of blue; on the other, gelaterias, benches, and the odd elderly gentleman with a newspaper and nowhere better to be. Locals walk their dogs, kids ride scooters, and the odd jogger tries valiantly to resist the lure of another coffee break. It’s the kind of place that seems built for lingering.

At the southern end, the recently renovated Piazza della Libertà is Salerno’s bold, modern statement, a sweeping semicircle designed by Ricardo Bofill to reconnect the city with its waterfront. It’s one of Italy’s largest squares, though you wouldn’t guess it from the sense of calm. Framed by clean lines and contemporary architecture, it’s a striking contrast to the old town and a great place to sit with a view and do nothing in particular.  It’s a contemporary contrast to the city’s medieval core, and a reminder that Salerno isn’t just resting on its laurels, it’s evolving.

The Devil’s Arch and a Whisper of Legend

Tucked between modern buildings and quiet backstreets, Salerno’s medieval aqueduct is easy to miss until you find yourself suddenly walking beneath it. Known locally as the Arco diavolo or Devil’s Arch, this 9th-century structure once carried fresh water from the hills into the city. Today, it carries a sense of mystery.

The arches, built from dark volcanic stone, slice through the street like a relic from another world. And, of course, there’s a legend to match: locals once believed that the devil himself had a hand in its construction, as no human could have possibly built it overnight. (More likely: clever monks with a flair for masonry and storytelling.)

By day, it’s an intriguing sight, a quiet piece of history hiding in plain view. By night, especially under shadowy lamplight, it’s easy to understand how tales of demons and midnight dealings took root. Either way, it’s a great detour from the main streets and a reminder that in Salerno, the past is never too far away.

A Quick Sip of History – Salerno’s subtle watering holes

Tucked just off the main shopping street, the Fontana di Vanvitelli is easy to miss but worth a pause. Built in the 18th century and named after architect Luigi Vanvitelli, it’s a small but elegant Baroque fountain nestled in the corner of Piazza Sedile di Portanova. Once a public water source, today it serves as a charming backdrop for coffee breaks and casual people-watching.

A short walk away, Fontana dei Delfini adds a more playful note. Created by designer Riccardo Dalisi, this modern fountain features two sculpted dolphins rising from an octagonal basin, gently spilling water from a metal dish above. Now restored and illuminated with LED lights, it’s a whimsical touch just outside the historic centre—perfect for a relaxed moment before dinner, or a lazy pause with a spritz in hand.

Words on Walls: Muri d’Autore

In a city where history is etched into every corner, Salerno has found a fresh way to tell its story: by writing it on the walls. Muri d’Autore (Author’s Walls) is an ongoing street art project that brings poetry, literature, and visual art together in the most unexpected places: on crumbling façades, in narrow alleyways, above doorways you might otherwise miss.

Instead of graffiti tags or murals of pop icons, these works are quieter, more thoughtful. Quotes from Italian poets and philosophers are hand-painted onto the walls, often accompanied by delicate illustrations or typographic flourishes. They’re like whispers from the past, reminders of beauty, emotion, and ideas, stitched right into the city’s fabric.

What’s striking is how naturally they blend in. You’ll be halfway down a forgotten side street, the kind most tourists wouldn’t glance twice at, and suddenly there’s a line from Dante or Ungaretti staring back at you. Some are melancholic, others romantic, a few gently defiant, but all of them seem perfectly placed, like they’ve always belonged there.

In a city already steeped in layers, Muri d’Autore adds a new one, this time with ink and intention. It’s Salerno at its best: poetic, unexpected, and just a little bit magical.

And if you’re craving a greener kind of history…

Minerva garden

Perched on the hillside above Salerno’s historic centre lies the Giardino della Minerva, a terraced botanical haven that whispers tales of medieval medicine and scholarly pursuits. Established in the 14th century by physician Matteo Silvatico, this garden is considered one of Europe’s earliest botanical gardens, where students of the renowned Salerno Medical School once studied medicinal herbs in situ.

While ongoing restoration meant we missed the chance to wander its aromatic paths and perhaps sip herbal infusions at the on-site tea room, the Giardino della Minerva is a must-visit for future travellers seeking a tranquil retreat steeped in history.

A Castle with a View (and a Few Hurdles)

High above Salerno, Arechi Castle keeps a watchful eye over the city, offering panoramic views that stretch from the rooftops to the sea. It’s an impressive medieval fortress and one of the area’s most iconic landmarks, but not the easiest to reach. There’s supposedly a bus that goes up, though tracking down its schedule feels like a quest in itself. As for walking, the path from town involves a steep climb, and according to recent reviews, the gate and stair access were firmly locked. With limited time and a full itinerary, we opted to admire the castle from below, with less effort, still a great view.

Salerno isn’t just a destination, it’s a perfect base for exploring nearby gems. And just along the coast…

A Splash of Colour: Vietri sul Mare

Just a short hop from Salerno, and marking the end of the coast road, the little town of Vietri sul Mare offered a cheerful burst of colour and character during our brief visit. Widely regarded as the ceramic capital of the Amalfi Coast, Vietri doesn’t ease you in gently; it dazzles from the moment you arrive. Almost every surface is a canvas: shop signs, doorways, benches, balconies… even the bins get the tiled treatment.

Ceramic production here dates all the way back to Roman times, but it was during the 16th and 17th centuries that Vietri’s pottery really took off. High, three-tier furnaces allowed for larger-scale production, and the town’s signature style, bold brush strokes, vibrant Mediterranean hues, and folkloric motifs quickly caught the eye of the Neapolitan royal court. By the 1920s and ’30s, a wave of international artists had arrived, introducing new forms, colours and abstract styles, and giving traditional designs a modern twist.

Today, the Centro Storico is a treasure trove for ceramic lovers. Tiled shopfronts tempt you inside with gleaming displays of plates, bowls, tiles, figurines, and more—everything from rustic to refined, kitsch to classic. Even with just a few hours to explore, it was easy to see how the town’s centuries-old craft has evolved into a thriving art form.

We wandered the steep, winding lanes downhill, past grocers and fishmongers, baskets of lemons and the occasional wandering cat, before pausing at a viewpoint with a dazzling panorama: the rooftops of Vietri tumbling towards the sea, and the Tyrrhenian shimmering under the afternoon sun. A short visit, but one that left a vivid impression, like one of its hand-painted tiles, small but bursting with colour and charm.

With the sun beginning to dip and our legs ready for a rest, there was only one thing on our minds: dinner.

A Side Street to Food Heaven

Of course, no trip is complete without a little indulgence, so enter Salerno’s food scene.

It’s no secret that I love my food. I’m firmly in the live-to-eat camp, and luckily, so is Andy. On a trip like this, where one beautiful town can start to blur into the next, we often catch ourselves asking: “What’s been your favourite view? Or place? Or atmosphere?” So far, we haven’t quite been able to decide. Maybe it’s because we know how much more there is to come. Or maybe comparison just isn’t the point.

But if there’s one thing that makes a place stand out for me, it’s the food.

And Salerno? Salerno showed up hungry for a spot on the leaderboard. So far, Siena and Naples have been front-runners, but they’ll have to make room. Because, wow, we ate well here.

For me, nothing beats the magic of a meal in a rustic trattoria tucked down a narrow side street. Low lighting, old tiles, mismatched chairs, and the smell of something bubbling away in the kitchen. Salerno delivered just that. And in that dimly lit room, surrounded by locals, good wine, and plates that seemed never-ending, I found a little slice of food heaven.

If Music Be the Food of Love…

La Traversa was exactly the kind of place I dream about: dimly lit, deliciously scented, and tucked away down a quiet street. We were actually on our way to another restaurant when we passed it, just one customer outside, soft lighting spilling through the doorway, and the unmistakable sound of something very good happening in the kitchen. A melody drifted out, and just like that, we stopped in our tracks. I do like to research some options beforehand, especially if you need a reservation… but sometimes your stomach makes the call. And thank goodness it did.

Inside, it was tiny, just four or five tables, but packed with rustic charm. Our table came complete with a wine bottle holder built into the side (genius), freeing up precious space for the important stuff: food. 

Carafes of local red wine in raffia jackets, a chalkboard menu scrawled in friendly handwriting, and black-and-white photos of Italian icons twirling spaghetti like it was a national sport. In the open kitchen, something sizzled and sent clouds of savoury promise our way.

The food? Traditional, generous, and absolutely full of soul. Grilled fresh anchovies, pillowy paccheri stuffed with creamy ricotta, grandma’s meatballs, and a rustic sausage patty served with escarole and melted provolone. If a nonna had shuffled out and served us in her apron, we wouldn’t have blinked.

We’re not usually ones for dessert, but places like this make you want to linger. And when you’re being serenaded by local musician Lello (yes, really), why would you want to leave? (see video here)

We stayed for cantucci and vin santo, the perfect sweet ending to a night already steeped in charm. 

Romantic, rustic, and real. What more could you want? 

Another visit, maybe?

To return, or to try something new?

We very nearly did. But we still had our original dinner plan on our minds, so off we went again the following night. Until I got distracted (again!). This time, by another cute spot just as tempting. La Posteria had seating on both sides of the small street, which meant our waiter spent a lot of time crossing between the two and balancing food while opening doors, but he did it with a smile. Space is a luxury here, it seems. You fit the tables wherever you can.

Part deli, part wine shop, and very much all heart, La Posteria serves up regional dishes and epic sharing plates with quiet confidence. We ordered a small platter of local meats and cheeses, which turned out to be comically generous, and paired it with two warm dishes: crispy pork belly and classic melanzane alla parmigiana. They do several versions, but we stuck with classic. Everything was fresh, full of flavour, and served with the kind of genuine hospitality that makes you want to stay just a little longer.

Salerno had truly earned its place at the top of our culinary leaderboard. And our hearts and stomachs were very full indeed.

A Lasting Impression

After so many postcard-perfect places, it’s easy to fall into the rhythm of passing through, admiring, photographing, and moving on. But Salerno was different. It wasn’t just beautiful; it was livable. The kind of place you could settle into. A city with enough heart to feel like home and just enough surprise to keep you exploring. Of all the places we’ve visited so far, this is the one that made us stop, breathe, and say, “We could live here.”

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