Rapallo: A Charming Base with a Local Heart – by Zoe

A Hidden Gem on the Ligurian Coast

Rapallo—our home for five days—turned out to be the ideal base for exploring the Ligurian coastline.

With its mix of local charm, fantastic food, and breathtaking waterfront views, it somehow manages to stay under the radar of mass tourism. And honestly? We’re not complaining!

Arriving in Rapallo: A Step Back in Time

No car? No problem! The train station is conveniently located in the heart of town, and from the moment we stepped off the train, even the drizzle couldn’t dull Rapallo’s charm. A short walk later, we arrived at our accommodation: Hotel Portofino.

Now, if you dream of sleek, modern bathrooms with spa showers, this is not the place for you. Instead, think faded grandeur—the kind that transports you to another era.

Opening the doors to our private terrace, we were greeted by a view of mustard, pink, and burnt-orange buildings—a warm contrast against the moody, post-rain sky. No sea view (budget constraints of a four-month trip), but still, utterly Italian.

Neighbourhood Encounters: The Lift of Mystery

Speaking of transport, our first local encounter came via an unexpected adventure in the lift of mystery—a tiny, rattling contraption with a mind of its own. Somewhere between the first floor and… beyond, the doors opened, and an elderly Italian lady (plus her trembling miniature dog) squeezed in. Squeezed being the operative word—our backpacks meant there was zero personal space.

Either she didn’t realise we didn’t understand, or she didn’t care. As she chatted away about her dog (cane) and going for a walk (camminare) in rapid Italian, oblivious to my barely contained giggles, I caught the words primo piano—enough to tell me we’d overshot our floor. How? No clue. Maybe there’s a secret override button just for locals. Either way, it was the first of many moments that made me exclaim, I love Italians!

If you have a sweet tooth (Andy does, I don’t) then breakfast in Italy is a dream. Yes, there are some slices of meat, cheese, maybe yoghurt, and less often fruit. But eat your fill of croissants – several types, different fillings, cakes – several kinds, different flavours, muffins, fruit-filled tarts, and yet more cake. Plus jams, Nutella, and honey. 

However, on the bright side, this trip does not afford the luxury of a prepared breakfast every day, so we made the most of it and may even have added a few tasty items to our bags for lunch. I smiled my sweetest smile when moments later the lovely receptionist offered us croissants for our trip. The staff here are genuinely lovely, nothing is too much trouble.

Coastal Strolls and Local Life

One of the simplest yet most rewarding things to do in Rapallo is a slow amble along the palm-lined waterfront. Whether in the early morning calm or during the lively evening passeggiata, it’s a perfect snapshot of Italian Riviera life—locals sipping espresso, families enjoying gelato, and elderly couples soaking up the sea air.

At one end, the modern marina gleams with expensive yachts, while at the other, the charmingly small (and scaffolded!) Rapallo Castle stands guard. Further along, beach clubs and lidos dot the coastline, with a tiny public beach inviting swimmers in the summer. In March, however, we settled for the next best thing—watching the world go by from a sun-drenched bench.

Chiosco della Musica: A Bandstand with a Story

Just across from the sea stands the beautiful Chiosco della Musica. Its domed roof, adorned with intricate paintings, glows warmly when lit up at night. In summer, it comes alive with concerts—it must be an enchanting scene as people sip wine in nearby cafés, soaking in the music.

A Longer Stroll to a Hidden Gem

If you follow the coastal road out of Rapallo towards Santa Margherita, passing the opulent Excelsior Palace Hotel, you’ll reach Spiaggia di San Michele di Pagana. And oh, what a find.

A deserted beach strewn with driftwood, a tiny but friendly café perched right on the sand, and a row of pastel-coloured houses with flood gates standing as a reminder of the sea’s power. This was my happy place. The kind of spot that makes you want to sit, to paint, to never forget that you stumbled upon something special. And so we returned. Again and again.

The Historic Old Town: A Maze of Surprises

Rapallo’s medieval heart is a tangle of narrow, cobbled alleyways and archways. The recently restored Piazza Garibaldi buzzes with cafés and bars, framed by 13th-century arcades.

Once a walled town, only one of its original five gates remains, blending so seamlessly into the streetscape that you could walk under it without even noticing.

And then, just when you think you’ve seen it all—Rapallo plays tricks on you.

When Buildings Fool the Eye

At first glance, Rapallo’s historic buildings seem classically Italian. But look closer. That window? It’s just paint. Those elegant shutters? An illusion.

This town is a master of Trompe l’oeil—a technique where buildings are painted with intricate details designed to deceive. It’s bizarre, it’s fascinating, and once you spot it, you can’t unsee it.

Focaccia, Pasta, and Late-Night Chicken

Food lovers, rejoice—Rapallo is a culinary delight. From hole-in-the-wall bakeries to family-run trattorias, every corner offers something delicious.

The focaccerias alone are worth the visit, serving up slices of golden, salty perfection. Pair that with fresh Genovese pesto, and you’re in heaven. When we wanted something quick and fuss-free, legendary local bakery Tossini delivered.

This time we tried farinata – a type of thin, unleavened pancake made from chickpea flour, simple, pretty healthy and delicious. And for a late-night, no-frills fix? City Pizza e Pollo Chic—because sometimes, only crispy, freshly made fast food will do.

As for sit-down meals, Rapallo has something for everyone: rustic charm at O Bansin, elegant seafood at Papiscar Mare, and bars like Enoteca Bar Castello and Sole for aperitivo with a view. For a touch of live music? Café Ziper has you covered.

The Ones That Got Away

Rapallo was the perfect launchpad for day trips—Santa Margherita, Camogli, Genoa, and of course, the famous Cinque Terre. But even with five days, we ran out of time.

One major miss? The Rapallo cable car to the Santuario di Montallegro. Opened in 1934, it takes just seven minutes to ascend 600 metres, offering breathtaking views over the Gulf of Tigullio. It opened for the season the day before we left, with schedules that clashed with my teaching hours. Next time, Rapallo. Next time.

Other day trips on our next visit list? Sestri Levante, Lerici, maybe even Grosseto. Because let’s be honest—we’re already looking for an excuse to return.

Final Thoughts: Why Rapallo Stole Our Hearts

Despite its slightly worn edges, Rapallo completely charmed us. From the moment we stepped out of the station, its soul was obvious.

Even the Monumento Al Cane—a statue honouring loyal pets—felt like a warm welcome. With its blend of liveliness and laid-back elegance, Rapallo is a place that feels like a well-kept secret.

So, is it worth visiting? Absolutely. Just don’t tell anyone else.

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