Il primo giorno (the first day) – by Andy

Waking up knowing you’re about to embark on four months on the road is a different feeling for sure. Excitement and nerves in equal measures.

Zoe was too excited to eat, while I ate to settle the nerves. With our final pack complete, we were ready to hit the road. Obligatory photos with our lives on our back taken outside my parents’ home (our home too for the last two months after selling up). 

With butterflies still in the stomach, we made our way to the station, where Zoe, as only she can, regales the coffee shop staff with our travel plans while I patiently wait for my extra hit of caffeine outside, guarding the bags.

An interesting interaction follows as we offer to help an older lady with her heavy suitcase down the stairs, she declines our offer stating “it is my karma”. Karma for overpacking or heading away on a trip, we weren’t quite sure, but it made us smile.

Before we know it, we’re boarding from Gatwick’s North terminal, checking our new Samsung Smart Tags for our bag locations. Nervously putting the phone into aeroplane mode despite the tags apparently still not being nearby (eek!). The flight’s a dream, Zoe (a nervous flyer) has very little turbulence to deal with and the plane is half empty, so numpty numbers are low.

Aeroplane mode disabled, smart tags checked… relief! They made it! When all of your belongings for the next four months are packed into two bags, you’re even more grateful to see them appear on the carousel. We had originally planned not to fly, but the landslide between the Paris and Milan trainline meant that a less favourable route would need to be taken, either via Switzerland or by air. With a need to be in Turin and not overly tired for our anniversary the following day the aerial route seemed most logical and efficient, although against one of the trip’s guiding principles of slower travel.

Turin greeted us with grey skies and a chaotic rush-hour symphony—honking horns, red lights ignored, and the hum of bone rattling trams rushing by our noses as we forget which way to look when crossing the road. Despite the mist, the grandeur of the city was unmistakable, the streets are wide and balconies ornate and plentiful. The capital of the Piedmonte region, Turin has a rich and diverse history—one that we were about to explore.

Turin played a crucial role in the unification of Italy (Risorgimento), becoming the first capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Italy from 1861 to 1865 before the capital moved to Florence and then later to Rome.

Turin is near the Alps, with a landscape that blends mountains, rivers, and plains. Around 140 km southwest of Milan. The western and northern sides of Turin are dominated by the Alpine mountain range, creating a stunning backdrop and influencing the local climate. To the east and south, Turin is surrounded by the rolling Piedmontese hills, including the Superga Hill, which offers panoramic views of the city and mountains. The Po River, the longest in Italy, flows through Turin, shaping its landscape and providing a natural boundary.

Sometimes the forgotten neighbour of Milan, the baroque palaces and arcaded streets give you a sense of grandeur everywhere. Not to mention the Mole Antonelliana, which dominates Turin’s skyline. The Shroud of Turin is housed here, one of Christianity’s most famous relics, believed to bear the image of Jesus Christ (housed in the Turin Cathedral (Duomo di Torino). 

Walking the streets of Turin, you can feel the city’s industrial past. Home to FIAT since 1899, this city has been the powerhouse of Italy’s car industry. Turin is the birthplace of gianduja, a hazelnut-infused chocolate that inspired Nutella, and is famous for Bicerin, a local drink made with coffee, chocolate, and cream (very tasty!). 

Vermouth was invented here in the 18th century and is also the birthplace of the Italian aperitivo, a pre-dinner drink tradition with snacks (thank you Turin!). 

We arrived a little too late and hungry for aperitivo. After a swift look around our small and quirky apartment we headed to the conveniently located wine bar next door, Tut Vin. 

We couldn’t resist a glass of local Nebbiolo and Barbera, accompanied by a speciality Piedmontese dish—Vitello Tonnato. A cold rare veal dish with a creamy tuna-flavoured sauce—it sounds like a weird combination, but it’s seriously good!

We also enjoy a Piedmontese mixed antipasti with russian salad, battuta di vitello (veal tartare), salsiccia cruda di verduno (sausage tartare), tomini cheese with red and green sauce. Tomino has an ancient history—legend has it that evil spirits were offered this cheese to protect houses from lightning. Whether or not that’s true, one thing’s certain—it was delicious!

Sated, we set off on a night time walk of this beautiful but eerily quiet city. The Mole took on a purple glow through the mist, still managing to dominate the skyline despite the poor visibility. Whether it was the fact that it was a Tuesday, or that the mist gave a strange sheen to everything that caused the desertion we’re not sure, but we enjoyed the quiet streets.

Zoe’s navigation meant that it took us a little longer than planned to find the royal palace, however we did end up there and the impressive scale of the city was obvious even in the gloom. 

After a long day of travel, rest was much needed. We had just two full days to explore Turin, and if today was anything to go by, they would be packed with history, food, and plenty of unexpected surprises.

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