From Sorrento to Amalfi: cliffs, curves and citrus – By Zoe

With Sorrento in our rear-view mirror and the sea glittering to our right, we eased into the Amalfi Coast Drive, the legendary coastal road that clings precariously to cliffs, curves past lemon groves, and squeezes through villages that feel too beautiful to be real. It’s a road that inspired artists, poets and more than a few white knuckles. And now, us.

We decided to treat ourselves to a private transfer with our lovely driver, Roberto. To move between towns here, you rely solely on the Sita bus. A few moments on Google and the reviews will immediately make you run to the nearest taxi. Badly signposted and with erratic schedules,  the buses are usually full, sometimes dangerously so, and you are at the mercy of the driver. Despite still being in March, we didn’t fancy our chances of getting our bags on, and so we blew our budget to travel in style. And it was worth it.

Spoiler alert: the views live up to the hype.

The Amalfi Drive – Where the Road is the Destination

They say it’s one of the most scenic drives in the world, and they’re not wrong. For much of the journey, it feels like we’re suspended between sky and sea. One moment, you’re gazing across the open Tyrrhenian; the next, you’re centimetres from a stone wall or dodging a bus around a blind corner with nothing but a honk and a prayer.

Built in the 19th century under the Bourbons, the SS163 is not a road for the faint-hearted, or for drivers with wide cars and weak brakes. But it’s breathtaking. Every turn reveals another cliffside hamlet, pastel houses clinging to impossible ledges, bursts of bougainvillaea tumbling from balconies.

Scenic Stops and Local Insight

Roberto kindly offered to stop at some scenic points along the way, sharing his local knowledge of the area and pointing out picturesque towns. We appreciated the chance to savour the breathtaking views, each one outdid the last, a living postcard of blues, greens, and sun-warmed stone.

And just when you start to wonder how anywhere could top the view… You reach Positano. We’d asked Roberto to include a one-hour stop in Positano, and he dropped us as close to the centre as possible, meaning we could maximise our short time. 

As we’d seen in Cinque Terre, visiting out of season usually brings roadworks and construction, and here we found a similar story.

Postcard Positano – With a Sorbet in Hand

If Amalfi is the coast’s namesake, Positano is its cover star. Steep, chic, and unapologetically glamorous, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to don linen and saunter, even if you’re sweaty, sun-creamed and slightly sea-sprayed from a sudden gust of wind.

We wandered down through the stacked streets, dodging selfie sticks and clouds of building dust. The scent of lemons and sea salt followed us all the way to the beach. Some boutiques were opening, other places preparing to open, and in the background, the gentle hum of construction that seemed to be ever present on this trip.

A Moment of Zest

The real highlight? A zingy, just-squeezed lemon sorbet, served in a frozen lemon shell. It was part drink, part dessert, entirely delicious—and just sharp enough to make your eyes water if you weren’t expecting it. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely. Sitting on a bar terrace overlooking the beach that would probably have been full in peak season, we tuned out the distant drilling and focused on the view.

Positano: pretty, pricey, and perfectly citrussy. For us, a quick stop was just right.

Hidden Corners and Quiet Charm

Back in the comfort of our minibus, we were glad to rest our legs, the elevation goals on both our watches had already been beaten for the day, and we still had five mad days in Naples in our legs. As we settled back to admire the coastline once again, I realised that we were about to pass a tiny town that I’d visited before seven years ago, memories of the most amazing seafood lunch still fresh in my mind.

Roberto confirmed that it was indeed Priano, and seeing my excitement, let us stop somewhat precariously for a quick photo. There are few stopping or passing places here, thank goodness for travelling out of season!!

As we passed small laybys with fruit stands, pretty ceramic factories decorated in their signature tiles, and beautiful towers jutting out from the cliffs, there was no doubt where we were; everything screamed Amalfi.

One more showstopping view was waiting for us, the bridge over the Fiordo di Furore, a spectacular cove with dramatic, steep cliffs and turquoise water.

With one last look at the winding road behind us and heartfelt thanks to Roberto, we stepped into Amalfi. For anyone visiting this part of the world, we can recommend his services. Although we went over our daily budget, it was well worth it, and we were glad we chose this option.

Amalfi – History, Beauty, and a Cathedral that Commands Attention

The town of Amalfi offers a slightly more down-to-earth charm—still beautiful, but with the weight of history woven into its stones.

Once a powerful maritime republic, Amalfi was one of the great trading powers of the Mediterranean, long before Venice stole the limelight. It even gave Europe its first maritime legal code, the Tabula Amalphitana. Today, it’s a much sleepier affair, but it hasn’t lost its sense of pride.

Our apartment, Vista D’Amalfi, was aptly named. A somewhat surprising entrance, at the edge of the tunnel that takes you under the buildings at the start of the town. Up some steep steps, a seamless check-in, and we walked into a room that had the most spectacular view we’d had on the trip. A wow moment. Our time here was sadly short, so we had some exploring to do. 

Piazza Del Duomo and St Andrew’s gaze

Dodging the showers which we seemed to have brought with us from Sorrento, we wandered straight into the heart of the city, stopping for a selfie with the very apt statue outside the main gate to the town. Fontana degli Innamorati, or Lovers Fountain, shows a young couple embracing in the rain. The water flows from the tip of their umbrella, so it really does look like it’s raining. Luckily, it didn’t last long.

The Piazza del Duomo is where locals chat on benches, tourists sip spritzes, and all eyes eventually drift upward to the 62 steps of the grand staircase of St Andrew’s Cathedral. Its black-and-white striped façade, Moorish arches and towering bronze doors demand a moment (or ten) of admiration. Inside, the crypt houses relics of St Andrew himself, brought here from Constantinople in the 13th century. It’s beautiful.

A Nymph, a God, and a Fountain with a Tale

Just in front of Amalfi’s grand cathedral stands a striking Baroque fountain that tends to draw a crowd, not just for its beauty, but for the legend it carries. According to local lore, the town owes its name not to practical Roman settlers (though they played their part), but to a heartbroken god and the nymph he loved.

The story goes that Hercules fell hopelessly in love with a sea nymph named Amalfi. When she died young, the grief-stricken hero vowed to bury her in the most beautiful place he could find. He chose this stretch of shimmering coastline and named the town after her—a romantic gesture, even by mythological standards.

Of course, history offers a slightly less poetic version: Roman families, said to have been shipwrecked while travelling to Constantinople, found refuge here and established a settlement they named Melphes (now Melfi). But let’s be honest—grief-stricken gods make for better fountain-side stories.

The fountain itself, in Piazza del Duomo, is more than just a pretty centrepiece—it’s a true meeting point for locals and visitors alike. Built in 1760, it features Saint Andrew (patron saint of Amalfi and god of the sea) at its centre, surrounded by four angels, a fish, a pelican, and a dove delicately carved into the base. It’s part sculpture, part storytelling, and very much part of daily life in the town.

Today, the legend lives on—her name carved into the cliffs, her story echoing in the splash of the fountain. It’s just one of the many reasons Amalfi feels like a place caught somewhere between history and fairytale.

Paper with a Past (and a Future)

Tucked just a short stroll from the main square is Amalfi’s Paper Museum, where the whir of old machinery still echoes the town’s centuries-old papermaking tradition. Amalfi’s carta a mano—handmade paper crafted from cotton and linen—was once prized by kings, popes, and poets alike. And for good reason: it’s more durable than the modern, cellulose-based stuff and has a reputation for being, quite literally, eternal.

Today, this elegant paper is still used for special documents by the Vatican and sought after by artists and calligraphers. It also remains a romantic favourite for wedding invitations. Why? Because if Amalfi paper lasts forever, so too, fingers crossed, will the marriage.

An Inspired Moment – Hallelujah!

Stopping for a quick slice of pizza and enjoying the gorgeous square, we took a moment to take it all in. We ambled over towards the cathedral, scanning for a bin to dispose of our rubbish, which turned out to be a comedy highlight that we wouldn’t forget. As Andy pushed the bin’s foot pedal and threw our wrappers inside, he received a loud chorus of ‘Hallelujah! Hallelujah! Genius! Whoever designed that was inspired. What a brilliant way to encourage people to dispose of litter responsibly.

Obviously, we had to try again and take a video, and were somewhat disappointed when we only received a round of applause. Still cool, but not a musical ovation.

Having run out of things to throw away (Little Boof was not up for the experiment, no matter how many ice creams I promised him), we returned later, like Wombles with our acquired litter and ready for a chorus like no other. I was reminded of a book by the name of Alchemy by Rory Sutherland, a behavioural scientist who finds creative ways to solve problems. That’s certainly how it felt.

View the video here.

A Magical Water Source – Donkeys and Drinking Water

In the heart of Amalfi lies a small yet fascinating fountain, known locally as De Cape ’e Ciucci (dialect for “Donkey’s Head”). Built in the 18th century as a public water trough, it earned its name from the pack donkeys (ciucci) that once stopped here to drink after hauling goods down from the mountain village of Pogerola.

Today, this unassuming fountain is famous not only for its rustic origins but also for the whimsical nativity scene installed within its basin – a unique blend of local history, art, and tradition that continues to charm residents and visitors alike

The Fontana De Cape ’e Ciucci was constructed during the 1700s, a time when donkeys were vital for transporting fruit, timber and other goods between Amalfi’s steep hillsides and its busy port.

Despite its age, it still provides drinkable water, a welcome sight on hot days, just as it was centuries ago when it quenched the thirst of farmers and their animals. In this way, the fountain encapsulates a slice of everyday life from Amalfi’s past, preserving the memory of the town’s rural heritage even as the world around it modernised.

Cuiccio – the Unofficial Amalfi Mascot

The fountain is built into a whitewashed wall and has a broad basin at ground level, once accessible for animals to drink from. Water emerges from two carved marble faces set into the stone backdrop. These marble faces lend the fountain a touch of Baroque whimsy. Some locals even like to imagine that the dual faces represent the “two souls” of old Amalfi – one perhaps symbolising the aristocratic side and the other the peasant, embodied by the ever-laborious donkey. The humble donkey has become an emblem of Amalfi’s heritage and spirit, symbolising hard work, humility, and the link between coastal towns and their inland farms – indeed, locals proudly celebrate the ciuccio as a mascot of the Amalfi Coast

Since 1974, a unique Nativity scene (presepe) has been installed within the fountain’s basin, turning it into a miniature world of figurines and grotto-like scenery. Though tiny and unassuming, it is immensely picturesque – a favourite backdrop for photos, with its ivy-draped wall, trickling water, and the enchanting miniature village in the basin. 

Geographically, we are now in the Gulf of Salerno, with the Bay of Naples to our north, the two bays separated by the Sorrentine peninsula. But if we needed a reminder that we are still in Campania, the ever-present Diego Maradona art still features prominently, albeit sharing a wall with some donkey love.

A love Affair with Views – not Food!

As we were only here for one night, we couldn’t really hit the supermarket, so we decided to eat in Amalfi. We knew that finding a good restaurant here that didn’t cost the earth and that would be open at this time of year would be a challenge. Sadly, we were proved right. Despite our best attempts to research, avoid the main square, and order classic dishes, we were underwhelmed by our food for the first time since the trip began. 

Consoling ourselves with the knowledge that the only open grocery shop was about as expensive, we ambled home to enjoy the views from our balcony. The magic of Amalfi was there right in front of us, and even the stars came out to give us a show.

Nearby Towns

Though Amalfi is the headline act, this stretch of coast is packed with small-stage stars that are well worth a look:

• Atrani – Right next door, almost hidden in plain sight. One of Italy’s smallest towns, with quiet charm and a photogenic piazza. Take your chances on the coast road, or walk through the tunnel like we did to give safer access to the adjacent town.

• Furore – Home to a hidden fjord and a bridge that makes your legs wobble just looking at it. We only drove over it, so we didn’t get the famous view from under the bridge, but it was still stunning.

• Minori and Maiori – Twin towns with longer beaches, more space, and fewer crowds. Plus, they’re a good spot to try delizie al limone—a local lemon sponge dessert that we may have sampled more than once.

Next Stop: Ravello, the Jewel Above the Sea

As the new day began, we were packed and ready to go bright and early, our eyes turning skyward, to the cliffside town of Ravello, with music in its soul, gardens in the clouds, and a view said to have inspired Wagner, Virginia Woolf, and anyone lucky enough to make it that far.

Our plan was to squeeze in a visit to Ravello before catching our onward boat to Salerno—one last excursion, and unfortunately, a necessary ride on the dreaded SITA bus.

Ticket Tango: Amalfi Edition

The SITA bus is infamous along the Amalfi Coast—late, overcrowded, and seemingly governed by chaos. Still, with Ravello on our must-see list and only one bus that would get us there and back in time, we had no choice but to try our luck.

Armed with time to spare and minus luggage, we went in search of tickets. A nearby shopkeeper muttered something about a yellow jacket and vaguely waved behind us (usually, you simply buy them from the Tabacchi). Thus began our wild goose chase around Amalfi’s bus stop, scanning for any sign of hi-vis humanity. We asked drivers (grunts and shrugs), searched the square (empty), and circled back (nothing). The bus we needed? Gone.

Defeated, annoyed and ticketless, we opted for coffee.

And then—like a character in a play arriving just before the final curtain—there he was. A man in a faded, grubby waistcoat that technically could be called yellow. He was standing approximately three feet from where we’d already asked. Of course.

Miraculously, a second unscheduled bus was about to leave. We grabbed return tickets, boarded quickly… and watched others buy theirs from the driver!!!

It made no sense, involved zero logic, and yet—somehow—we were on a bus to Ravello.

Ravello

High above the glitz and bustle of the Amalfi Coast, Ravello sits quietly on its perch, over 1,200 feet above the sea, watching the world go by. This hilltop haven has long been a retreat for those seeking beauty, tranquillity, and a touch of magic. With sweeping views that have stirred the hearts of writers, artists, and musicians for centuries, it offers a different kind of coastal charm—one of quiet gardens, winding medieval lanes, and villas that whisper stories from centuries past. Ravello may not shout for attention like the coastal towns below, but it doesn’t need to. Its elegance is effortless, its atmosphere timeless.

Home to the famous Wagner music and arts festival, every summer for two months, classical music, opera and the arts are celebrated in the most beautiful setting. Seeming suspended in the air, orchestras play on a platform attached to a ravine at Villa Rufolo. What an incredible experience that must be. I imagine the price tag is eye-watering too. The website says this is a music festival for the discerning music lover. Read expensive!

The Most Beautiful View in the World

Although we didn’t manage to visit Villa Cimbrone—closed during our time in Ravello—it’s easy to see why it’s one of the area’s most celebrated landmarks. Perched dramatically above the sea, the villa dates back to at least the 11th century and is best known for its breathtaking Terrazza dell’Infinito (Terrace of Infinity), a panoramic viewpoint said to offer one of the finest vistas in all of Italy.

The villa was transformed in the early 20th century by British nobleman Ernest William Beckett, who infused it with romantic, eclectic charm. Later owned by the Vuilleumier family, it has served both as a private residence and a luxury hotel. American writer Gore Vidal, who lived nearby for many years, famously called its view “the most beautiful in the world”. It’s certainly the one that you’ll find online if you search Ravello.

Villa Rufolo 

No visit to Ravello is complete without a wander through the enchanting Villa Rufolo, the town’s historic heart and cultural soul. Overlooking the central Piazza Vescovado, this 13th-century villa was once the grand domain of a wealthy merchant family whose lavish lifestyle sparked legends of hidden treasures and royal banquets. It’s less well-known than Villa Cimbrone, but every bit as charming.

Where Music Meets the Sky

Its legacy has attracted some of the greatest minds and artists in European history—from Boccaccio, who immortalised the villa in The Decameron, to Richard Wagner, who stood in its gardens and declared he had found Klingsor’s mythical paradise. Saved from ruin in the 19th century by Scottish botanist Sir Francis Neville Reid, Villa Rufolo is today a living monument to beauty, imagination, and music. With Moorish towers, flower-filled terraces, and views that seem to melt into the sea and sky, it’s no surprise that Ravello earned its title as la città della musica, and that this villa remains its most poetic stage.

A Symphony in Bloom

It’s the gardens of Villa Rufolo that truly steal the show. Lovingly restored by Reid and maintained ever since, they are a symphony of colour and calm, where manicured flowerbeds spill over stone walls, and exotic blooms frame sweeping views of the Amalfi Coast. With every step, there’s a new perspective: a glimpse of the sea through umbrella pines, a cloister bathed in golden light, the distant dome of the Church of the Annunziata below. These gardens aren’t just beautiful—they’re steeped in a quiet kind of magic that lingers long after you’ve left. It’s easy to see why Wagner was so moved, and why visitors today still fall under their spell. Part dreamscape, part botanical masterpiece, the gardens are a peaceful pause in a town already known for its serenity.

Simply exquisite. I don’t think I have the adjectives to do this place justice—and even the hundreds of photos I took don’t come close to what the eye actually saw. We had it almost entirely to ourselves, and in that silence, the peace felt absolute. The view—layered sea and sky, framed by history and flowers—was one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.

If I never saw another vista again, I’d still feel content having witnessed this one. It was a moment of pure awe. A pause to drink in the beauty of the world. A quiet nudge to remember just how lucky we were—here, out of season, alone with this panorama that felt like a gift.

If you’re heading to Amalfi, don’t skip Ravello. Don’t skip Villa Rufolo. Yes, it’s a climb—figuratively and literally—but you’ll be rewarded in ways you can’t quite imagine until you’re standing there, breathless for all the right reasons.

To be Continued

Some of Ravello’s magic must have rubbed off on us—because, miraculously, the return bus arrived on time. Little Boof even made a friend at the bus stop. After a quick dash to collect our luggage, we waited for the boat that would carry us onward to Salerno.

And just like that, the Amalfi chapter came to a close. But the story? The story rolls on.

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