Sorrento: Our Brief Affair Beneath the Lemon Trees – By Andy

Naples left its indelible mark on us. We were sad to be leaving with so much still unexplored. But, if there’s one theme of this trip it’s that we could easily spend a lot more time almost everywhere we’ve visited. Too much world, not enough time.

So, reluctantly, we packed up once again and boarded our Flixbus towards Sorrento — a town that would prove, even in a short time, to be quietly captivating. 

The bad weather and low clouds that had plagued us over the last few days lifted, and from the bus we got incredible views of Vesuvius in all its glory. Its magnitude became more apparent and impressive the further away we drove. We’ve already learnt that you cannot let the regret of bad weather spoiling a view weigh too heavily for too long, just add it to the list of unfinished business to be rectified at a later date.

As we approached Sorrento, the dramatic cliffs and the shimmering Bay of Naples set the stage for an unforgettable experience.

Sorrento: A Town Steeped in Myth and History

Sorrento’s allure isn’t just in its stunning vistas; it’s a place where history and mythology intertwine. According to legend, the town’s name derives from the Sirens—mythical creatures who lured sailors with their enchanting songs. It’s said that Ulysses himself encountered them near these very shores.

Historically, Sorrento has been a melting pot of cultures. Founded by the Greeks in the 6th century BC, it later became a Roman resort town known as Surrentum. The Romans were captivated by its beauty, constructing grand villas along the coast. Remnants of these ancient structures, like the Villa Pollio Felice at Bagni della Regina Giovanna, still whisper tales of a bygone era.

Room with a view (and laundry to do)

As we climbed the steps of our accommodation, knowing we were at the very top, I was hopeful the view would be worth it, and boy was it. From our window we looked out from the Sorrento peninsula over the Bay of Naples with Vesuvius in clear view. A view you could get lost in for hours.

But before I could lose myself in the view entirely, reality struck: laundry to do. Clothes washing admin on a 4-month trip is a necessary evil. We wash the essentials – and anything else we can – by hand or by machine when one’s available, hoping for a drying rack or at least somewhere to string up a makeshift line – it’s fun fun fun!

Our lovely apartment had drying racks and space on a balcony, so I got to work washing as much as I could as quickly as I could, never wanting to waste too much time on such admin when there’s exploring to be done.

Exploring the Heart of Sorrento

With the washing out to dry, and a nice breeze that would surely see it dried in no time, we head out to stroll through Sorrento’s cobblestone streets.

We were immediately enveloped by the town’s vibrant life. Piazza Tasso, the bustling main square, is a hub of activity, surrounded by charming cafes and shops. The historic centre, with its alleys, offers glimpses into the town’s rich past and artisanal traditions.

Don’t miss the Chiesa di San Francesco, a serene 14th-century church and monastery with a cloister that hosts art exhibitions and weddings. Its tranquil ambiance provides a stark contrast to the lively streets just outside.

Limone and Limoncello

Sorrento isn’t just beautiful — it smells incredible. That citrusy tang in the air? It’s not your imagination. Lemons are more than an accompaniment to fried fish — they’re a way of life.

Thanks to year-round sunshine, sea breezes, and fertile volcanic soil, Sorrento is famous for producing some of the best citrus in the world. But growing lemons on these sheer cliffs is no easy feat. Farmers had to get creative — carving out terraces that hug the hillsides and building traditional Sorrentine Pergolati (canopy trellises made from chestnut wood) to protect the trees from wind and frost. It’s a sight to behold — and a system that’s as clever as it is picturesque.

And these aren’t just any lemons. Sorrento lemons have IGP status, meaning they’re protected by law — like Champagne or Parmigiano Reggiano. They’re a little rounder than their Amalfi cousins, packed with fragrant oils, and famed for their thick, flavourful peels. It’s no wonder they’re the star ingredient in everything from limoncello to lemon oil, soaps, pasta sauces and dangerously delicious lemon desserts.

There’s no shortage of evidence as to what is the most famous produce of the region, from our accommodation’s signage to the shops and stalls in town, the lemon is king here.

If the lemon is king, there’s no doubt about the favourite product. No visit to Sorrento is without a realisation that Limoncello, the zesty lemon liqueur, is native to this region. Made from the fragrant Femminello St. Teresa lemons, it’s a delightful digestif that captures the essence of Sorrento’s sun-kissed groves.

Whether you’re sipping something zesty, wandering through lemon-scented groves, or simply admiring the bright yellow bursts clinging to the cliffs, it’s impossible to miss the impact of the humble lemon. In Sorrento, it’s not just fruit — it’s identity.

The Hairpin Bend: A Curve with a View

On the Northern edge of Piazza Tasso you can peer down one of Sorrento’s most famous landmarks – a dramatic, sweeping hairpin road. Known locally as La Rampa Marinella or simply the Sorrento bend, it hugs the cliffside like a coiled ribbon, looping down towards the Marina Piccola. It’s a visual treat for drivers, passengers, and pedestrians alike, and a favourite photo spot for capturing the layered landscape of sea, rock, and road.

This curve has become something of an unofficial landmark — not just for its cinematic beauty, but for what it symbolises: the shift from the everyday into the extraordinary. One minute you’re winding through ordinary hillside roads, the next, the Tyrrhenian Sea suddenly opens up before you, framed by bougainvillaea, pastel villas, and vegetation clinging to the slopes. 

You can take a set of steps down to the hairpin, or like me the next morning you can go for a run to the edge of town, get lost and find yourself on the hairpin with the stairs to climb. Either way, if you want a different perspective, it’s worth the effort.

Vallone dei Mulini: Nature Reclaims the Past

Tucked away just behind Piazza Tasso, a short walk down Viale Enrico Caruso, lies the Vallone dei Mulini—the Valley of the Mills—a hauntingly beautiful ravine where nature has reclaimed the remnants of centuries-old industry. 

Formed around 35,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption from the Campi Flegrei, this deep gorge was later carved by the Casarlano and Sant’Antonino streams, creating a microclimate of high humidity and dense vegetation. The valley’s name originates from the flour mills established here in the 13th century, which harnessed the constant water flow to grind grain for the local population. 

In addition to the flour mills, a sawmill was constructed to process wood for Sorrento’s renowned cabinetmakers, and a public washhouse served the community’s daily needs. However, the construction of Piazza Tasso in 1866 isolated the valley from the sea, disrupting airflow and increasing humidity levels. This change led to the decline of the mills, which were eventually abandoned in the 1940s. Over time, the valley became overgrown with lush vegetation, including rare plant species like Phyllitis vulgaris, a type of fern that thrives in the damp environment. 

Today, the Vallone dei Mulini stands as a testament to nature’s resilience and the passage of time. You can view the valley from above, near the Hotel Antiche Mura, where the contrast between the vibrant greenery and the crumbling stone structures creates a scene that feels almost otherworldly. This hidden gem offers a serene escape from the bustling streets of Sorrento and a poignant reminder of the impermanence of humanity.

Marina Piccola & Marina Grande: Sorrento’s Twin Harbours

After a moment of quiet awe at the Vallone dei Mulini, we headed toward the sea — this time to discover Sorrento’s two very different but equally charming harbours.

We found our way to the steps of Via Sopra le Mura, which offer fantastic views of Marina Grande (the smaller of the two harbours). This picturesque fishing village, nestled under the cliffs, is renowned for its colourful houses, traditional boats, and seafood restaurants. It offers a glimpse into Sorrento’s rich maritime heritage. 

Walking East to Villa Comunale park, we gazed upon panoramic views of the Bay of Naples, with Mount Vesuvius looming in the distance. The juxtaposition of the azure sea against the rugged cliffs creates a picturesque setting that’s hard to forget.

Beneath us were the beaches of Sorrento and Bagni di Salvatore, where you can swim overlooked by and amongst Roman ruins. It’s March, only just into double figures for temperature and sun is setting, there’s nobody swimming!

At the far end of the beaches is Marina Piccola (the larger of the two harbours), which serves as the town’s bustling transport hub. Situated beneath the cliffs, this port is the primary departure point for ferries and hydrofoils to destinations like Capri, Naples, and the Amalfi Coast.

And yes — in a delightful twist of Italian irony — the larger harbour is called Piccola (small), and the smaller one Grande (big). Quaint? Confusing? Perfectly Italian.

Storms, Pasta and Perspective

Just as we were revelling in this peaceful seaside moment, the weather had other plans. The rain that had been following us finally caught up. A few large drops at first, soon turning into proper rain, the sort that will soak you through and leave your hands wrinkly from over exposure if you don’t find shelter.

Finding shelter in a nearby shop, Zoe decided that lemon adorned socks were the perfect accompaniment to the cornicello adorned socks she bought me in Napoli. She muttered under her breath something about me needing as many pairs as I can carry due to the smell of my worn ones. But, they are as clean as day one of the trip, I promise, as I had got into the habit, straight after a long day, of washing them.

Argh, the washing! 

Yep, all my industriousness undone in one downpour.

When we could, we headed back to the apartment to assess the damage. Sure enough, every item was like I’d never wrung it out. Moving to Amalfi the next day, also for one night, this was a bit of a disaster, but what are you gonna do?! Move it inside, wring it out again, put the heating on and hope for good weather in the morning. 

And open a bottle of wine! It was time to try our Limone pasta we bought from the Limoncello shop in Naples. Zoe cooked up a storm with limited supplies and space, and we enjoyed it looking out at the moody Bay of Naples, an ominous cloud above Vesuvius, and the scattered lights of the sprawling metropolis.

A new dawn, a new day… 

And I’m feeling good!

The sun is shining, the washing just needs a couple of hours and it will be good to go. I had a spring in my step and headed out for my aforementioned run, which ended with me getting lost — and climbing back up from the famous hairpin bend.

Getting back into running not that long ago has been a bit of a god send. You’ve got to do something to keep the pasta, pizza and gelato from expanding the waist band too much!

But it has also given me an opportunity to explore or revisit some wonderful scenery. Bringing my running gear on this trip was most definitely worth it.

Run done, all that was left to do was enjoy the balcony and our view, soak up some of that sunshine and consider when we can return.

More than a Gateway to the Amalfi Coast

Sorrento serves as an ideal base for exploring the Amalfi Coast. Its location offers easy access to nearby gems like Positano, Amalfi, and the island of Capri. Each destination boasts its unique charm, but Sorrento’s blend of history, culture, and natural beauty is equal to all of them.

Our trip to Sorrento was brief, but unforgettable. The town’s rich heritage, combined with its stunning landscapes, left an indelible mark on us. We will be sure to return.

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