Arcades, Arches and Amore: A Taste of Turin – by Zoe

I’ll start with a disclaimer—apologies in advance for any factual errors in my descriptions. We are currently side-by-side blog writing, it’s 6am and Andy has the light-hearted travel day bit (yes, I did swear multiple times at my backpack!), while I have the history lesson!

Turin has a special place in my heart. This is my third visit to this beautiful city, and Andy’s first. So, in a way, it’s a new experience for me too—I want him to love it as much as I have over the years.

When we finally dragged ourselves out of the market, it was time to get some serious steps in and build up our appetites for what we hoped would be a special anniversary dinner that evening. With only two days to explore, walking was our best bet for seeing as much as possible. And when the sky is this blue, it’s hard to justify taking the metro!

A City Steeped in History

As the former capital of the Duchy of Savoy, Turin is home to a collection of royal residences that have held UNESCO World Heritage status since 1997. Every guidebook insists that the Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale) is the perfect starting point. Piazza Castello, the vast square at its heart, is so enormous that deciding where to begin can be overwhelming.

To the north, the Royal Palace’s white façade gleams in the sunshine, almost daring us to step inside. Built in the 16th century, it’s a masterpiece of baroque architecture and rococo extravagance. We didn’t have time to explore its treasures—the world-famous armoury, the royal library, or the chapel of the Shroud of Turin—but we did step into its neighbour, the Real Chiesa di San Lorenzo.

While we didn’t get to see the real thing—the Shroud of Turin is stored securely in climate-controlled conditions—the exhibition gave us plenty to think about. A centuries-old mystery, a city built around its legend, and an interior so gilded it felt like stepping into a jewellery box. A moment to pause.

To the east of Piazza Castello stands Palazzo Madama, once the first Senate of the Kingdom of Italy, now a museum. A curious mix of medieval fortress and baroque grandeur, its most breathtaking feature is the marble staircase. By 1718, the palace’s ceremonies had become so extravagant that a suitably grand staircase was a necessity. Enter Filippo Juvarra, the man entrusted with designing a showstopper—and he delivered.

It’s the kind of staircase that begs for a dramatic entrance in your finest frock—though with all that marble, one wrong step could turn it into a grand exit instead!

Fuel for Exploration: Focaccia

After the history lesson, it was time to refuel, and in Italy, a solid lunchtime strategy is to head straight for a Focacceria—a no-fuss, guaranteed-delicious option that never lets you down.

If you haven’t yet had the pleasure, focaccia is a glorious, olive-oil-rich flatbread, a distant cousin of pizza, most famously associated with Liguria but adored nationwide.

It’s one of Italy’s great street food treasures—crispy on the outside, soft and pillowy inside, and dangerously easy to scoff in about 30 seconds. You can enjoy it plain or with toppings ranging from the classic cheese, pesto, onion etc to more indulgent options with pistachio cream. I went for ham and cheese, perfectly salty and satisfying, Andy opted for porcini mushrooms. 

The experience ticked all the boxes: excellent price-to-quality ratio, friendly service, and—importantly—no one laughed (out loud) at my terrible pronunciation. To top it off, they served Menabrea, a locally brewed beer that added just the right refreshing touch to our lunchtime feast. 

Retail Therapy – With a Side of Elegance

Re-energised and ready to stretch our legs, we set off for a little window shopping. (Emphasis on ‘window.’) Like everything else in Turin, shopping is done with style. Via Roma, one of the city’s two main shopping streets (the other being Via Garibaldi), runs straight from Piazza Castello to Porta Nuova station, and if you’re looking for high-end fashion, designer boutiques, and cafés where people watching is an art form, this is the place to be.

Of course, we were here for the architecture—at least, that’s what we told ourselves. Via Roma is pure elegance: polished marble pavements, grand archways, and ornate facades that whisper stories of Turin’s illustrious past. The arcades lining the street aren’t just practical (sheltering you from rain or the baking summer sun); they also give everything an air of old-world sophistication.

Via Roma isn’t just about shopping—it’s a social hub, a place where tourists and well-dressed locals weave in and out of historical piazzas like Piazza San Carlo, stopping for a coffee, an aperitivo, or simply to see and be seen.

A Gelato Moment to Remember

Speaking of stopping, it was time for a major milestone: Andy’s first gelato in Italy. Knowing his sweet tooth, I had planned ahead—because nothing says ‘strategic travel planning’ like pinpointing the best gelateria well before arrival. A well-timed offer of ice-cold indulgence is, after all, the ultimate morale booster. And so, with some excitement, we made our way to La Romana.

Wow. Just wow. This place is something else. More than just a gelateria, it’s also a café, where impossibly decadent cakes practically wink at you from across the room. Established as a family business in 1947, La Romana is the kind of place where locals queue around the block, and after one bite, it’s obvious why.

Luckily, we arrived during a quiet spell. The staff? Incredible. Before we could even process the sheer number of flavours, we were handed sample after sample—three? Four? Maybe five? Who’s counting when each one is described with the enthusiasm of a Michelin-starred chef presenting their signature dish?

And then, the decision-making pressure. What does one choose when everything tastes amazing? Andy, after much internal turmoil, went for a 3 scoop cone including the 150-year anniversary of the unification of Italy flavour. Because why just have gelato when you can eat history?

Stepping Back in Time: The Charm of Galleria Subalpina

There are places in Turin where time seems to stand still—Galleria Subalpina is one of them. Linking Piazza Castello and Piazza Carlo Alberto, stepping inside this unique arcade feels like slipping into another era. The intricate iron and glass ceiling bathes the space in a soft, diffused light, giving everything an almost dreamlike quality. Inspired by the grand covered passages of Paris and Milan, it’s a stunning example of Belle Époque opulence.

Today, Galleria Subalpina is home to elegant boutiques filled with rare books, antiques, and fine clothing, but we were there to see Baratti & Milano. This historic café has been a meeting place for intellectuals, politicians, and artists for over a century. The kind of place where you can sit with an espresso, surrounded by chandeliers and gold-trimmed mirrors, and pretend you’re drafting a masterpiece—or at least writing postcards with an air of sophistication!

Turin is a city that offers everything: grandeur, history, and a laid-back charm that encourages you to simply wander. And so, wanting to soak up the sunshine, we made our way down Via Po, one of the city’s most atmospheric streets. Lined with bookshops, cafés, and arcades that seem to stretch endlessly into the distance, it eventually opens out into the grand Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This square is the largest in Italy and an open invitation to slow down, sip a spritz, and watch the world go by.

Chasing memories and a riverside bar

That was the plan, at least. Unfortunately, our vision of an aperitivo in one of Turin’s oldest cafés was thwarted by the relentless march of progress—roadworks had taken over the tram tracks that run the length of Via Po. So, undeterred, we carried on towards the river, where the promise of a cool drink and a relaxed vibe awaited.

I had a vague memory of a great riverside bar from a past trip, but I couldn’t remember its name. Just that it was “in the park” and “kind of alternative.” So, with blind optimism and an adventurous spirit, off we went..

The search took us through Parco del Valentino, a beautiful green space hugging the banks of the Po. As we wandered, we passed tightrope walkers balancing with impressive focus, a woman effortlessly spinning three-pronged discs with long, pointed ends, and groups of locals stretched out on the grass, basking in the late afternoon sun. There wasn’t a phone in sight. People were actually communicating, hanging out together and just being. Something that hit home, and something we’re determined to do more of on this trip.

And then—success! Imbarchino. A local institution tucked into the riverside, this bar is effortlessly cool. It’s the kind of place where tables are an optional luxury, with many customers spilling onto the steps or lounging on the grass, drinks in hand. It serves good food, it’s cheap and is even home to the RBL radio station. Part bar, part study space, part cultural hub.The atmosphere? Pure art-student-meets-local-bohemian. For a brief moment (very brief!), we, too, felt effortlessly cool, sipping our drinks as the river shimmered beside us.

As the evening set in, the hum of conversation mixed with gentle laughter, the occasional clink of glasses, and the faint notes of a busker’s guitar drifting on the breeze. Turin, with its history and effortless style, had cast its spell.

A Taste of Celebration – Our Anniversary at Vitel E’Tonne

Four years together deserved something special, and what better way to celebrate than with a feast in one of Turin’s most-loved restaurants? We had booked an early dinner at Vitel E’Tonne, a spot known for its deep Piedmontese roots with a touch of Mediterranean flair.

Guided downstairs into their wine cellar, we found ourselves in an intimate alcove, flanked by towering shelves of local and international wines. A single table for two, tucked between two long communal ones. For a brief moment, we feared we might become accidental guests at a work outing gone rogue, but thankfully, the other tables remained empty. Andy, never one to miss an opportunity for a joke, leaned in conspiratorially and whispered, “I actually arranged this private dining experience just for us.” Smooth.

The Starters: A Play on Tradition

We couldn’t resist starting with Vitello Tonnato, given that the restaurant’s name itself is a nod to the dish. And let’s just say—this was a masterclass in getting it right. The veal, rare and delicate. The tuna mayonnaise, impossibly creamy, a luxurious silkiness that melted on the tongue. Perfection.

Andy, always drawn to the more “adventurous” side of the menu, opted for sweetbreads with artichokes. While I’ll happily let him take the lead on organ-based gastronomy, even I had to admit they were expertly cooked—a delicate crispness giving way to something rich and deeply savoury. Would I order them? No. Did Andy clear the plate with a satisfied nod? Absolutely.

The Pasta Course: A Tale of Two Choices

If ever there was a dilemma worth having, it was deciding between the rabbit ragù and the agnolotti del plin. Naturally, we ordered both.

The rabbit ragù was the kind of dish you dream about—slow-cooked to velvety perfection, the sauce so rich and silky it clung to every strand of pasta like it had nowhere better to be.

Then there was the plin, those delicate, hand-pinched parcels of pasta, filled with pear, cheese and topped with shaved chocolate. Yes, you read that right. Chocolate. The kind of dish that makes you pause after the first bite because your brain needs a second to catch up. Unexpected? Absolutely. But somehow, the richness worked—the savoury tang of the cheese against the bittersweet notes of the chocolate was decadent, indulgent, and unapologetically Piedmontese. Too rich for me in the end, but Andy? He demolished it.

Wine, Cheese, and the Perfect Ending

No great meal in Italy is complete without wine, and with a cellar quite literally surrounding us, we had plenty to choose from. We both opted for local wines, and once again, they didn’t disappoint—deep, full-bodied, and perfectly paired to our dishes. There’s something truly wonderful about drinking a wine that hasn’t travelled far from where it was made. It just feels right.

Despite being dangerously full, we couldn’t resist rounding off the evening with a platter of mixed Alpine cheeses. Some were creamy, buttery delights, while others leaned heavily into the “goaty” side of the spectrum—which, thankfully, meant an easy trade-off between us. A win-win.

A Night to Remember

As we stepped back out onto Turin’s quiet evening streets, stomachs full and hearts fuller, we couldn’t help but reflect on how lucky we are to have found each other, to share these experiences, and to celebrate life one delicious meal at a time.

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