
Scilla: Swordfish, Sea Myths and Slow Living – By Zoe
A2Z Wander | Our Blog A short coastal train ride punctuated by dramatic thunderclaps brought us further down into Calabria to a town called Scilla.
Lamezia Terme almost didn’t get its own blog post. There’s only so many ways you can describe rain and the inside of an apartment, which is where we spent most of our time in Lamezia.
This would probably be a two-sentence mention — if it weren’t for a little game of rain cloud roulette. But when life hands you endless grey skies… you might as well turn it into a blog post.
You see, the rain from Scilla followed us, and our hangovers. A couple too many the night before a travel day will not be repeated any time soon, that’s for sure.
We very much blame the rain for trapping us in the bar. Technically, we had an umbrella and could’ve left at any time — but you know how it goes: “maybe after the next one…” Until you’re too engrossed in conversation or playing a drinking game to notice the weather at all.
So, what is there to say about Lamezia Terme?
First of all, we had to rebook an apartment. We realised our onward travel to Matera was at 7am from Lamezia Terme station, which like some other places in Italy is not particularly close to the town, actually several kilometres away.
We also found a few dodgy reviews about the place we had booked, so we decided it was safer to book somewhere near the station.
It was so close, we were virtually on platform three — and by the end of our stay, Zoe had learnt the entire train schedule. A niche but impressive skill.
To be fair, the apartment was clean, well equipped, but unfortunately, we felt a little imprisoned. The electric sound-proofing blackout shutters did their job a little too well.
In one break in the rain I legged it to the closest Carrefour supermarket, leaping over a flooded car park and dodging splashes from passing cars, it felt more like mission impossible than a trip for bread and cheese.
The Carrefour, which promised plenty online, was more semi-deserted pandemic bunker than well-stocked supermarket. So strange that I made Zoe come take a look during the next rain break, like I’d discovered a modern ruin.
We wrote, Zoe taught, we watched the only English-speaking channel we could find, I cooked a very average pasta dish, we played a few hands of cards, and we improvised every possible way to dry our washing.
And then…
Accuweather suggested there was a break in the rain for a few hours. So, armed with rain jackets and an umbrella we ventured to the train station for a trip to the station’s namesake, the actual town, or was it?
Lamezia Terme, sort of doesn’t exist. The municipality of Lamezia Terme dates back to 1968 following the union of the previous municipalities of Nicastro , Sambiase and Sant’Eufemia Lamezia.
Nicastro, it appears is the main town in this union, where we’d originally booked an apartment and where we were heading.
We arrived – of course – at 2pm, when virtually everything was shut.
And then…
The heavens opened, yet again! Fortunately, we were across from a cafe, so we hurried for cover.
Even some locals were caught out — they rushed in like drowned rats. From our experience it’s unusual for locals to be caught out in Italy. On multiple occasions we’ve seen them on bright clear days carrying umbrellas, and sure enough a little time later the rain appeared. So, we did feel a little vindicated that us Brits had also been taken a little by surprise.
To be fair to Nicastro/Lamezia Terme, it does have something going on. Not much, but we saw enough closed places that made us think that on a nicer day in the summer the town would have a nice buzz.
It’s very much off the beaten tourist route. They do have a Norman castle overlooking the town. But you can’t access it, the gates are shut, it’s overgrown and abandoned.
There is a pleasant main street, on which you’ll find the Nicastro Cathedral, a fairly unremarkable example compared to others we’ve seen on this trip.
About 3km away in Sambiase there’s a public hot springs, which we had planned to visit had it not, one, been raining cats and dogs and two, been open.
Again, we had arrived just a bit too early, it wasn’t open for the season. Not that it really mattered with all the rain.
Having felt like we’d seen everything Nicastro had to offer in the damp, we jumped back on the single carriage train and headed back to our platform 3 accommodation.
While Lamezia Terme officially appeared on maps in 1968, the area’s been busy for millennia. The ancient Greeks had a colony here called Terina in the 5th century BC (sadly, it’s mostly just museum exhibits now).
Later came the Romans, then the Normans — who built the now-abandoned castle above Nicastro. Earthquakes repeatedly knocked the place about, which is partly why much of the town feels newer than many of its southern neighbours.
And those hot springs in Sambiase? They’ve been bubbling away since antiquity. Shame the rain kept us from soaking in any of that history properly.
Sant Eufumia Lamezia is the transport hub, as well as the train station, the regional buses (one of which we were catching to Matera) run from outside the station and the airport sits just on the edge of town.
In fact, we found out that you can get some seriously cheap flights from the UK to Lamezia Terme.
During a rain break we walked to Piazza Italia in search of another supermarket, and it turned out to be rather pleasant. An octagonal piazza with a green centrepiece, ringed by artisan butcher, baker, café and takeaway. Not exactly buzzing, but perfectly nice.
Hardly a glowing endorsement, but if you do find yourself stuck for a few hours, there are a few pleasant spots to pass the time.
There is a coastline with beaches just a 10-minute drive away. This was also an option, should the weather have played ball. Spiaggia Cafarone looks like a nice long unspoilt stretch of beach. Some of the photos show spectacular sunsets, even of the Ulysses variety, setting in the mouth of Stromboli. It looks like the sort of place you’d seek out if you were in a campervan and wanted to wake up and throw open the back doors to a quiet beach, and enjoy a morning dip.
Spiaggia Liberia has Gizzeria Lido, and would appear to have a bit more life in the season, with more amenities.
And a little further appears to be a small huddle of beach clubs that offer surfing etc.
The beaches look surprisingly good online — wide stretches of public sand not entirely monopolised by hotels or sunbed fees. Maybe a bit of a hidden secret for Italians escaping the crowds elsewhere?
Would we recommend Lamezia Terme?
You’ll probably not be surprised to hear… not as a destination.
But as a gateway to southern Italy — with cheap flights, an airport, trains, buses, and the odd supermarket adventure — it has its uses.
(Though to be fair, those beaches might just deserve a closer look one day.)
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